Night Photography

[Joe Copalman]

Just realized we don't have a night photography tips thread up yet.

While this isn't a tip per se, it is relevant.  I recently purchased a remote shutter cable release with a programmable timer/intervalometer from Amazon.  I've tested it on numerous occasions around my house and my backyard, and had a chance to test it "in the field" during a light painting workshop at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum this past weekend.  It worked perfectly.  Anyone who doesn't have a cable release yet or is looking to upgrade to a programmable one might want to look into this.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F69JBW/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_1

What's funny is that it's the same exact remote used by the author of a book on night photography I've been reading, only under a different third-party brand name (His is a Yonguo, mine is a Neweer).

Definitely worth looking into, especially if you want to be dead-nuts on with your exposure times.   

[FelipeG]

For that price I'd even buy one just to build a proprietary plug -> 3.5mm adapter.

[Dave S.]

... I recently purchased a remote shutter cable release with a programmable timer/intervalometer from Amazon.  I've tested it on numerous occasions around my house and my backyard, and had a chance to test it "in the field" during a light painting workshop...  Anyone who doesn't have a cable release yet or is looking to upgrade to a programmable one might want to look into this...What's funny is that it's the same exact remote used by the author of a book on night photography I've been reading, only under a different third-party brand name (His is a Yonguo, mine is a Neweer).

Definitely worth looking into, especially if you want to be dead-nuts on with your exposure times.   

I don't know which third party brand I have, but it looks EXACTLY the same as the one Joe shows in the link.  I think they are great too!  This one/these kind are super intuitive, easy to use and operate while being pretty inexpensive too.

[Joe Copalman]

I thought I'd put together a quick list of gear needed for successful night photography.  Please feel free to add to it.

Necessary:
-SLR or an advanced point-and-shoot that allows for long exposures.
-Lens that allows for manual focus. 
-Tripod.  With exposures ranging from a few seconds to several minutes, you need something steady.
-Remote trigger.  This can be a programmable cable release like the one linked above, a manual cable release, or an IR remote control.  If you lack a remote trigger, the best option is to use your camera's delayed-shutter function.
-External light source.  If you're going after anything other than star trails or moonlight-only shots, you should have a flash, flashlights, or other sources of light to illuminate your subject.
-Flashlights.  At the very minimum, you'll need a bright flashlight to shine on your subject while you manually focus on it.  It also helps to have a low-intensity or red flashlight to find things in your camera bag in the dark.
-Spare batteries, CF/SD cards.  This is good form under any conditions.


Good to have:
-Lens hoods.  This will help minimize the chances of stray, unwanted light introducing lens flare into your image.
-SLR with live view.  This helps a great deal when fine-tuning your focus in the dark when used in concert with a flashlight.
-SLR with high-ISO capability (3200+).  While your shots should be done at your camera's lowest native ISO to minimize noise, it's good practice to do high-ISO test shots prior to investing the time in a long exposure shot.  A high-ISO shot can help you identify any unwanted elements in your composition.
-SLR with long exposure noise reduction.  While this effectively doubles your time on each shot (it adds a "dark frame" of equal exposure time to every shot you take), it can have a dramatic effect on the amount of noise present in your image.  I believe you 1D and 5D shooters actually have a buffer that applies this while allowing you to keep shooting.  I think us 7D and XXD shooters have to wait.  
-A bubble level.  Not necessary, but can help you get up close and personal, filling the frame without having to worry about losing anything vital due to rotating and image to make it level.
-If you are light-painting with flashlights, it's a good idea to improvise snoots for them that extend an inch or so ahead of the flashlight's front element.  This will allow you to move through the frame during a long exposure shot with minimal chance of direct light hitting your sensor and ruining your shot.

Again, feel free to add anything to this list that you feel is necessary or good to have.

[jslugman]

To help focus on distant subjects I have a high-intensity flashlight in my bag (Surefire C2 Centurion, about $90US, and uses the same batteries as my Sekonic light meter). It will blind you so don't look into the front of it... although that ability may make it useful as a weapon. In a pinch you can use the light from your phone to hit the correct distance mark in manual focus mode.

If you're going for near/far composition and maximizing DoF think about bringing a tape measure and a DoF app on your phone (or if you're fortunate- emblazoned on your lens barrel). Night photography is like shooting big film: it slows me down and makes me think. Having those neanderthal-esque tools help me get things right when I'm in a one-off situation.

Know your equipment, know your equipment, know your equipment. Nighttime at the A-bomb dome in Hiroshima is NOT the time to try and figure out where the handles are on your tripod or "that button" is on your camera body. If you have to, sit on the can with your owner's manual and get your switchology down to a science. The ability to switch focus points or metering/exposure modes/exposure compensation can make a huge difference if the situation is rapidly changing.

If you're stacking night shots think about an AC adapter. I've used literally hundreds of individual images to simulate the old single-frame star trail technique of the film days which would have been impossible with just the batteries in the body/grip. Additionally, if you're hanging your gear out overnight and it gets cold you might need to warm your lens with a chemical heater to discourage dew settling on the front lens element.


Saguaro star trails by James O'Rear cti0007 by James "JSlugman" O'Rear, on Flickr

Hope my ¥0.02 helps.

[Joe Copalman]

Solid input James, thanks for chiming in.

Night photography is like shooting big film: it slows me down and makes me think.

This is precisely what I love about it.  Shooting at night FEELS like photography. 

[Jay Beckman]

I don't think it's simply because you're shooting at night.  Using a tripod in general will slow you down.

Even if you're not consciously aware you're moving more slowly, your "eye" is seeing possibilities all around you while your fiddling with the legs, ballhead, etc...  You don't have six degrees of freedom on a tripod like you do when hand holding so in order to get the lens on target, you have to slow down and make adjustments.  IMO, better images often come from this!

If you're thinking about Tucson this Friday (TIA -> PASM), throw a tripod in the car and use it at PASM.  I think you'll find there's truth here...

[Joe Copalman]

Yes, doing TIA/PASM this Friday, bringing two of the three tripods I'm bringing to PASM on the 30th.  Want to pre-compose a few shots so I can just show up on the 30th and maximize our time out there.

[Scott Youmans]

Joe - Two tripods?  Is that to set up another shot while you wait for the first camera to do its long exposure?
I carry two cameras but one is a decoy...

[Scott Youmans]

My first attempt at night photography.  It accurately portrays the scene as it appeared at the time.  EOS-1D Mark IV.  I'll be happy to assist anyone having difficulty with this demanding technique.

[Joe Copalman]

Scott, you rock.  

Scott, I have a regular tripod that I can get pretty low, and a surprisingly robust "desktop" tripod that my friend in Ohio let me borrow.  I actually did the two-camera thing during the Desert Splash shoot, and it worked out pretty good, especially for the limited time that we had the engine running for us.  

[jslugman]

If you want to get REALLY low consider building yourself a Frypod. Nigel Blake showed me his and I was amazed at how well it worked stalking wildlife and making time spent on your belly a little easier. Not something you want to lug around every day but when you need it it can be a very handy piece of kit. This setup with a set of extension rings makes a fantastic macro rig BTW.


FRYPOD examples by James "JSlugman" O'Rear, on Flickr


FRYPOD examples by James "JSlugman" O'Rear, on Flickr


FRYPOD examples by James "JSlugman" O'Rear, on Flickr

Simple aluminum frying pan minus the handle, a spare ball head and a handful of stainless steel nuts and bolts leftover from a Boy Scout sled building project. Out-of-pocket cost was literally less than $20.